Bike Information Blog

Tips For Beginner Mountain Biking

2008-07-24T21:47:00.000-07:00

If you love hiking and biking, then why not combine the two? Mountain biking is really challenging, and not only does it work your thighs (it's tough going up rocky hills), but all those windy and narrow trails challenge your sense of balance and trust in yourself. Once you get the hang of it, a power inside takes over and you'll find yourself going faster and taking more risks. It's really exhilarating since it makes you feel strong, confident, and tough. If you're thinking about trying it out, here are some tips.

Make sure your bike has wide, knobby tires and a sturdy frame. The seat should be set at a height so that your legs reach almost full extension when your pedal is in its lowest position. The handlebars should be positioned slightly lower than your seat so that your back is at a 45° angle. You may want to consider purchasing a bike with suspension so that the bumps are easier on your joints.
A helmet is a must. You're bound to fall off your bike, and you want to make sure your head is protected.
The terrain may be very bumpy so keep some softness in your knees and elbows to absorb shock and prevent joint injury.

To find out what else you'll need to know for mountain biking read more.

Mountain bikes will have either platform pedals, toe clips, or clipless pedals. Platform pedals are flat and you can wear any type of sneaker with them. Pedals that have little baskets on the front to slide your shoe into are called toe clips. Some mountain bikes have clipless pedals that you wear special shoes with that click into them, which makes it easier to pedal with force. Practice clicking in and out of these pedals so if you start to lose you balance and fall over, you can remove your shoe from the pedal and use your foot to catch your fall. It's best for beginners to use platform pedals or toe clips.
Learn how and when to shift your gears. Higher gears are harder to pedal (good for soaring downhill), and lower gears are easier to pedal (good for tackling uphills). Practice biking up and down hills so you can figure out when to use which gears.
Learn how to pedal while standing. This enable you to use the strength of your legs to go up hills and over rocky terrain.
Learn how to go downhill. It's important to lift your bum off the seat and shift your weight slightly towards the back of the bike. This will give you more control and will also prevent saddle soreness the next day.

Mountain Bike : Part and Component

2008-07-08T05:07:00.000-07:00

Mountain biking is a different sport than road biking. It uses a bike that, while bearing a resemblance to the road bike, is completely different in many ways.

Bearing:
-Contains small steel balls which enable the wheel to move smoothly. Also situated in the bottom bracket, pedals and handle bars.

Chainwheel:
-In a mountain bike, there are normally three.

Crank:
-On the frame, helps the pedals turn.

Pedal:
-You push the pedals with you feet, powering the bike. (Did we really need to tell you that?)

Frame:
-Smaller than on road racing bikes. This makes it stronger and easier to control. The vertical tubes are also less upright for added comfort and smoother steering.

Freewheel/Gear Cable:
-Freewheel contains five, six, or seven sprockets.
-Gear cable connects the hear lever to the chainwheel or freewheel gear systems. Covered in a plastic tube called the housing.

Handlebar:
-Also known as the stem.

Grip/Handlebars:
-Handlebars normally are a flat design, with a slight curve.

Nipple/Spoke:
-The nipples are tiny tubes at the beginning of the rim which hold the spokes.

Rim:
-Made of aluminum for light weight.

Seat/Seat Post:
-Height can be adjusted. Normally lowered for downhill riding.

Shocks:
-Replacement for the normal fork that has either air-oil or air-damper and work to absorb vibration from riding. Can be engineered for the back of the bike also.

Sprocket/Derailer Gear System:
-So-called because the chain is thrown from one sprocket or chainwheel to the next; in other words, de-railed.

Top Tube:
-Positioned low so it is less dangerous if you fall.

Wheel:
-Normally approximately 66cm (26in.) in diameter.

Extra Bike-Fit Tips

2008-07-08T05:06:00.000-07:00

How you ride has a lot to do with comfort, too. The number one problem for many cyclists is what I call the vulture riding position, because it resembles that animal’s posture. It’s what a cyclist looks like when he locks his elbows and raises his shoulders, a position even hard-core pedalers often develop. You’ll feel a lot better if you RELAX. Every few miles, shrug your shoulders and let them drop and keep those elbows bent.

Never raise any bike part too high because it can lead to failure and a crash. Parts are usually marked with limit lines that, when exposed, indicate that the part is too high. Heed these markings.

Once you’ve found the correct seat height, mark the seat post. Please do this before you travel. This way—if the post slips, or when you pack the bike for shipping—you’ll quickly be able to get it back in the right spot.

Likewise, measure from the top of the saddle to the center of the pedal axle (put the pedal at the bottom of its stroke, down around six o’clock) and memorize and jot down the number where you can find it. It’ll come in handy if you have to set up another bike, say a rental or borrowed one.

Early in the season you’re not as flexible and you’ll probably enjoy a higher handlebar position. As you ride more regularly, you’ll gain flexibility and may want to lower the bars to stretch out a bit more.

Women often require additional changes such as narrower handlebars, shorter stems and easier to operate brake levers.

Biking Trails

2008-07-08T05:04:00.000-07:00

Lee's Ferry Dugway
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
10 miles

Monument Valley
Trail Location: Monument Valley, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Easy
10 miles

Navajo Mountain
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
24 miles

Rainbow Trail
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Impossible!
48 miles

Paria Townsite
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
12 miles

House Rock Valley Road
Trail Location: Page (Grand Canyon/Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
36 miles

Long Valley Road
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
6 to 16 miles

Cottonwood Canyon
Trail Location: Church Wells, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
54 miles

Whiterocks Rimrock
Trail Location: Church Wells, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
4 to 20 miles

Paria View
Trail Location: Page/Big Water (Lake Powell), AZ/UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
25 miles

Grand Bench/Burning Hills/Kaiparowits Plateau
Trail Location: Lake Powell, AZ/UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
50+ miles

Romana Mesa
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
18 miles

Crosby Canyon/Kelly Grade/Smoky Hollow
Trail Location: Big Water, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
26 to 36 miles

Colorado River Views
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Easy
7 miles

Page Loop Trail
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
10 miles

Fish Creek Falls
Trail Location: Steamboat Springs, CO, USA
For Mountain or Road Biking
Level: Moderate
8 miles

Long Lake
Trail Location: Steamboat Springs, CO, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
10 miles

The Cut
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Road Biking
Level: Advanced
56 miles

Antelope Point
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Road Biking
Level: Moderate
18 miles

Wahweap Loop
Trail Location: Page (Lake Powell), AZ, USA
For Road Biking
Level: Moderate
20 miles

Flat Pass
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
14 miles

Arches by Moonlight
Trail Location: Arches National Park, UT, USA
For Mountain or Road Biking
Level: Moderate
25 miles

Moab Rocks
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
25 miles

Hurrah Pass
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Easy
26 miles

Mt. Werner (Steamboat Springs Ski Resort)
Trail Location: Steamboat Springs, CO, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
40 miles

Mount Evans Highway
Trail Location: Idaho Springs, CO, USA
For Road Biking
Level: Impossible!
32 miles

Mount Evans Highway (Downhill!)
Trail Location: Idaho Springs, CO, USA
For Road Biking
Level: Advanced
16 miles

Gemini Bridges
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Easy
13.5 miles

Slickrock Trail
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
9.6 miles

Slickrock Trail (Practice Loop)
Trail Location: Moab, UT, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Advanced
2.2 miles

Waterton Canyon (Colorado Trail)
Trail Location: Denver, CO, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Beginner
12.4 miles

Elroy/Sparta State Trail
Trail Location: Sparta, WI, USA
For Mountain or Road Biking
Level: Beginner
32 miles

mid fork kalispell pend orillie
Trail Location: power lake loop, WA, USA
For Mountain or Road Biking
Level: Moderate
10 miles

South Platte River Trail
Trail Location: Denver, CO, USA
For Mountain or Road Biking
Level: Moderate
46 miles

Daniels Park Road
Trail Location: Highlands Ranch, CO, USA
For Mountain Biking
Level: Moderate
14 miles

Be a Good Cyclist!

2008-07-08T05:02:00.000-07:00

Always wear a bike helmet, even if you are only going a few blocks. You can find good helmets starting at around $30; they won't be lightweight or stylish, but neither is blunt-force head trauma and a motorized wheelchair, the likely results of crashing hard while not wearing one.
Be visible! Use bright clothing by day, lights and reflectors by night. Bright clothing at night is a plus too.
Learn to ride in a straight line; ride predictably, and use hand signals as a courtesy to drivers, pedestrians and other cyclists when making turns on busy roads.
Learn to pedal quickly and smoothly, using low gears at first. Try to "spin" by pedaling in a circular motion at 60-80 revolutions per minute. This will build good form and help protect your knees from injury. It also promotes a good cardiovascular workout.
Find a good local bike shop that will help guide you through the basics. Often, local shops are a good way to plug into the cycling community too.
Keep practicing and don't give up riding. If you ride several times a week, your body will soon become accustomed to riding and you'll be able to ride further, faster, and more comfortably.
Try commuting regularly on a bicycle.
Smile and say hi to your fellow cyclists. Road racing cyclists tend to be friendly but highly elitist if you catch them at rest, but are usually preocupied with riding, since road bikes sacrifice stability and comfort for speed. Most bikers on the trail would usually just pass you and tell you that its a nice day or that there are more people behind him/her.
Join your local cyclist group.

Fix a Broken Bicycle Chain

2008-07-08T05:01:00.000-07:00

Push the pin out by screwing the pin of your chain tool in just before the pin comes out. Be very careful to not push the pin all the way out, as it is extremely difficult to get back in.

Snap the two pieces apart.

Click the two links back in place with the pin facing you. This will make things a lot easier in step 4.

Hold the pin facing you (which is a lot easier), and push it back into both links until it comes out evenly on both sides.

Grab the chain on each side of your newly connected links and move it from side to side to loosen up the new connection. It also helps to move the chain tool to the other side of the joint just made, and push the pin very slightly to free the two outside plates of the link from the central section.

Mountain Bike Designs

2008-07-08T04:39:00.000-07:00

There are several different styles of mountain biking, usually defined by the terrain, and therefore bikes employed. All of the bikes in this category fall into one of the above four categories and bikes of each of the above style can be found almost any of the following categories.

1. Cross country (XC) mountain bike
mountain bikes usually have only a small amount of front and/or rear suspension (usually 65-110 mm) and are relatively light, which is achieved via the use of lightweight materials and construction in both frame and components

2. Enduro/all-mountain (AM)
bikes are generally considerably heavier than XC bikes, typically weighing between 30 and 35 pounds (14 to 16 kg)

3. Freeride (FR)
mountain bikes are similar to All-Mountain bikes, but with less emphasis on weight and more on strength. Freeride bikes tend to have up ample suspension, typically have at least 6 inches (150 mm) of travel.

4. Downhill (DH)
races are time trials events where riders ride courses separately, racing the clock. They can have technical sections like rockgardens as well as jumps and drops. Downhill Bikes typically have 7 or more inches (178 mm) of suspension travel

5. Trials
bikes are set up very specifically for the purpose of bicycle trials. Two varieties of trials bike exist, those with 26" wheels (referred to as 'stock') and those with 20" wheels (referred to as 'mod' - because historically they were modified BMX bikes)

6. Dirt jumping
urban and street mountain bikes lie somewhere in between a BMX bike and a freeride bike. They are typically very strong bikes, with 4 inches (100 mm) of front suspension, and rarely any rear suspension (3 to 4 inches, 76 to 100 mm, if any), with as many as nine gears or as few as one

7. Single-speed (SS)
mountain bikes have one set gear ratio. The gear ratio chosen depends on the terrain being ridden, the strength and skill of the rider, and the size of the bike (a bike with 29" wheels often requires a different gearing than a bike with standard 26" wheels

8. Mountain cross or "4-cross racing" (4X)
it is a relatively new style of riding where four bikers race downhill on a prepared, BMX like, track, simply trying to get down first. These bikes are generally either full suspension with 3 to 4 inches (76-100 mm) of travel, or hardtails, and have, typically, quite strong frames. They run a chainguide on front and gears on the back. They have slack head angles, short chainstays and low bottom brackets to aid in cornering and acceleration.

9. Dual slalom (DS)
is similar to mountain cross, but instead of four bikers competing together, there are just two. Courses usually have a lane for each rider, though some combine to a single lane in places or even for much of the course. The courses are in general more technical with smaller jumps compared to Mountain Cross courses and have gates. Dual Slalom races originally took place on grass slopes with gates and minimal jumps. The same bikes used in Mountain Cross are used.

10.Short cross or speed cross (SC)
is the newest form of mountain biking. The idea is to ride short, narrow forest paths with rocks and roots, but not necessarily any ramps on them. The optimal length of the paths are from a few tens to hundreds of meters. The shortness is to provide extreme speed and thrill to get trough the hindrances as fast as possible without crashing.

11.North Shore
mountain biking originated in the steep, wet, rocky, rooty terrain of Vancouver, Canada's north shore, thus it was coined "north shore" riding. Because of the almost, if not completely impassable terrain, riders began building bridges over muddy areas, rocks, stumps and deadfall

12.Circle dirt track racing
In this class of racing any kind of bikes are used, most commonly a hard tail mountain bike with front suspension. There are many different mods available. Such as reducing bike weight, increasing brake power, trying different cambers (so that when the bike leans the tire is more level with the track thus creating more grip), and trying different gear ratios. Although small and uncommon circle dirt track racing is enjoyed by racing fans.

Daily Bike Safety & Maintenance Check

2008-07-08T04:37:00.000-07:00

Check the tire pressure

Why? Riding on under-inflated tires can cause flats and damage your wheels. And pumping up tires is a lot easier than fixing bent wheels.
How? It's hard to tell with your thumb if a tire is under-inflated, especially on narrower, higher pressure tires. Instead, use a pressure gauge or a floor pump with one built-in.
What if there's a problem? It's good to know how to change a tube yourself. If you're not sure, have a mechanic at your local shop give you a quick lesson. Rear wheels can be a little tricky to remove and install because of the chain & derailleurs.
Mechanic's Tip: Don't just throw a new tube into the tire without finding out what caused the flat - if the sharp object is still stuck in your tire, it will just result in yet another flat tube.
Safety Pointer: Under-inflated or over-inflated tires can both cause accidents, though it's more common with under-inflation.

Check your chain lube.
Why? Riding with a dry chain wears the chain's moving parts out faster. This, in turn, wears out everything else on your drive train faster: cassette, chain rings, even the little pulleys on your derailleur
How? Before throwing a leg over the bike, back-pedal a half-revolution and listen for squeaking from your chain. If it's squeaky, looks dry, or even if it's just been a while since you lubed it last, take a second to apply some fresh oil to the chain.
What if there's a problem? Steady a drip bottle of chain lube so that it's just above the chain, then backpedal through three or four revolutions while gently squeezing the lube out onto the top, not the sides, of the chain. If you don't want to get messy, a local shop will usually do it for a dollar or two. They can also tell you what oil to use in your locale.
Mechanic's Tip: Every climate has its own best chain lube. Those living near the sea might want something not too far removed from motor oil, while those living in a drier climate might favor fairly thin lubricants that don't attract too much dust. But WD-40, Liquid Wrench and similar "penetrants" are never a good idea.
Safety Pointer: Don't use aerosols, as the overspray can get on the rim and interfere with your rear brake.

Check your brakes.
Why? Because people with bad brakes have accidents.
How? Before you start rolling, squeeze each brake a couple times to make sure they're working. Squeeze them again lightly as you start rolling to feel for uneven braking due to wheel damage, or the change in braking vibration that can mean your brakes are rubbing the tire rather than the metallic braking surface of the rim.
Mechanic's Tip: This is especially important if you frequently take the wheels off for transportation or storage -- it's common to forget to hook up the brakes again.
What if there's a problem? It may be as simple as taking up a little slack in the brake cable with a barrel adjuster or as complicated as a loose or broken part.
Safety Pointer: These are your brakes we're talking about, so if you don't know what you're doing, take it to a bike mechanic.

Check your clipless pedals, if you have them.
Why? If you find something that interferes with disengaging your pedals, you might just save yourself from keeling over at the next stop sign. It's hard to look cool when you're on the ground with your feet stuck in your pedals.
How? As you engage the cleat and pedal, take a minute to clip out and back in again once or twice.
What if there's a problem? If it feels rough or stuck, it might be a pebble stuck in your cleat. That's easy to fix. But if it feels sloppy and loose, or feels uneven but doesn't improve with a little light oil on the retention mechanism, you might have a broken cleat or pedal. That's more likely to require a trip to the bike shop.
Mechanic's Tip: If you're riding in muddy, sandy, rocky or snowy conditions, a couple moderate sideways whacks of shoe against pedal can help you clear the interfering grit and gunk without dismounting.
Safety Pointer: More than one rider has been injured by falling over in clipless pedals they couldn't get out of. Don't monkey with the cleat tension unless you understand what you're doing, and give yourself a chance to get used to any changes in a safe test-ride environment.

Feel for loose parts.
Why? Some loose parts will cause things to wear out faster, while others can cause crashes. Either reason is good enough for to check for loose parts.<>

Listen for unusual noises.
Why? Since bikes are so quiet, you can detect problems early with a good ear. Early detection means less expensive repairs and safer riding.
How? As you start out on your ride, listen for unusual sounds of scraping, rattling, rubbing, or creaking.
What if there's a problem? Stop and see if you can figure it out. If you can't, it might not always be necessary to scrap the ride. Little noises can be really hard to track down, and if there aren't any other symptoms, it might not require immediate attention.
Mechanic's Tip: Pay attention to rhythm. Noises that start & stop with your pedaling are usually symptoms of something in the drive train or parts of the bike that bear your weight. Wheel & brake noises will get faster as the bike accelerates, and continue whether or not you're pedaling.
Safety Pointer: Noises relating to wheel rotation are always worth finding before you ride anywhere, since they often indicate unsafe conditions in your brakes, tires or wheels. On the other hand, creaking sounds that seem to occur when you shift your weight around on the bike can be as benign as a stem or seat post that needs lubrication, or as serious as a small crack developing somewhere important. Take it to a mechanic if the creaking gets louder or fails to go away.

Mountain Bike History

2008-07-08T04:23:00.000-07:00

Riding bicycles off-road goes back to the beginning of cycling itself. Road racing cyclists have long used cyclo-cross as a means of keeping fit during the winter, eventually becoming a sport in its own right with the first world championship in 1950. The French Velo Cross Club Parisien (VCCP) comprised about twenty-one young cyclists from the outskirts of Paris, who between 1951 and 1956 developed a sport that was remarkably akin to present-day mountain biking.[2] The Roughstuff Fellowship was established in 1955 by off-road cyclists in the UK.

However the mountain bike has its origins in the modified heavy cruiser bicycles used for freewheeling down mountain trails in Marin County, California, U.S.A. in the mid-late 1970s. At the time, there was no such thing as a mountain bike. The earliest ancestors of modern mountain bikes were based around frames from cruiser bicycles such as those made by Schwinn. The Schwinn Excelsior was the frame of choice due to its geometry. Riders used balloon tired cruisers and later modified them with gears and motocross style handlebars. They were called Klunkers. The term would also be used as a verb since the term "mountain biking" was not yet in use. Riders would race down mountain fireroads, causing the hub brake to burn the grease inside, requiring the riders to repack the bearings. These were called "Repack Races" and triggered the first innovations in mountain bike technology as well as the initial interest of the public. The sport originated in the U.S. state of California, on Marin county's famous mountain, Mount Tamalpais.

It was not until the late 1970s and early 1980s that road bicycle companies started to manufacture mountain bicycles using high-tech lightweight materials. Joe Breeze is normally credited with introducing the first purpose-built mountain bike in 1978. Tom Ritchey then went on to make frames for a company called MountainBikes which was a partnership between Gary Fisher, Charlie Kelley and Tom Ritchey. Tom Ritchey, with his skills in frame building, also built the original bikes. The company's 3 partners ran into rough times and finally fell apart at the 1983 trade show[citation needed]. The designs were basically road bicycle frames (with heavier tubing and different geometry) with a wider frame and fork to allow for a wider tire. The handlebars were also different in that they were a straight, transverse-mounted handlebar, rather than the dropped, curved handlebars that are typically installed on road racing bicycles. Also, some of the parts on early production mountain bicycles were taken from the BMX bicycle. The first mass-produced mountain bikes were produced by Specialized in 1983 and were copies of Tom Ritchey's frames, but they were not fillet-brazed, and were made in Japan. They were configured with 15 gears.

Road bicycle racing

2008-07-08T04:21:00.000-07:00

The main specialities in road bicycle racing are:

Climber
A climbing specialist is a road bicycle racer who can ride especially well on highly inclined roads, such as those found among hills or mountains.

Time trialist
A time trialist is a road bicycle racer who can maintain high speeds for long periods of time, to maximize performance during individual or team time trials.

Sprinter
A cycling sprinter is a road bicycle racer or track racer who can finish a race very explosively by accelerating quickly to a high speed, often using the slipstream of another cyclist or group of cyclists tactically to conserve energy.

Domestique
A domestique is a road bicycle racer who works solely for the benefit of his or her team and leader. The French domestique literally translates as "servant", though the French term for such a team worker is porteur d'eau (literally: water carrier, like the German Wasserträger). In Italy and Spain, the term gregario (a kind of soldier of the roman legions, "one into the group" is used, while in Belgium and the Netherlands the term knecht ("servant") or helper ("helper") is used.

All-rounder
A racing cyclist who excels in both climbing and time trialing, and may also be a decent sprinter. In stage races, an all-rounder seeks a top-10 place in the General Classification. Eddy Merckx and Lance Armstrong were both notable all-rounders; Jan Ullrich, Ivan Basso and Alejandro Valverde are more contemporary examples.

Choosing Road Bikes

2008-07-08T04:18:00.000-07:00

How to choose your road bike, different level of riders.

How to chose your road bike? Well the first question is how much do you want to spend and how much cycling will you do? The answer to the first question is a difficult one, many people when they are younger they want to ride there bike all day and what to be the next winner of the Tour de France, but they can
not afford to spend much on there bike. If they get fit and win some races and get in a good team they will be given a top class bike, but what usually happens is they have to give up and work, have a family etc. When they are older and have more money they can afford the bike of there dreams. As to how much cycling you do, that depends on whether you can justify having the best bike around and only doing a short ride on Sunday morning. Remember you get what you pay for.

Basic Level Bikes.

If you go to the larger sports stores or bike shops they will have complete bikes for sale, probably a alloy frame with Shimano Tiagra or Campagnolo Mirage or a mixture of cheaper components, this bike will be built to a price, will ride fairly well, wont be very light and is a good place to start. To get some thing better, start with a nice alloy frame and if you can afford it, carbon forks, then with what money you have left chose your group-set of either Shimano or Campagnolo and then you can pick your saddle, handlebars, wheel rims and tires, this is all fun, but if you are working to a budget, it can be tricky.

Mid Level, Touring and Possibly Racing.

In this range of bikes you can buy them as a complete cycle, in the cycle shop, sports store or even in the specialist magazines or on the web. It is more fun to choose the components for your frame and how much you want to spend. At this level you would probably be looking at Shimano 105 or Campagnolo Centaur road bike parts and you could possibly buy some built up wheels from Shimano, Campagnolo or Mavic, but first start with the frame, there are many frames out there to choose from, get on the net and look for what you want, it will probably be alloy again, with carbon forks. Alloy seat pin, handle bars and stem and a
comfortable saddle.

Top Level Bike For Racing and Pleasure.

Now it gets more difficult, your components would be Campagnolo Chorus or Shimano Ultegra, unless you can afford the top components of both manufacturers. Wheels again would be possibly Mavic, Shimano or Campagnolo, deep carbon rims look Great and have a wonderful ride, but will probably be too expensive, best if you stick to alloy rims for high pressure tires as tubulars, even though they ride wonderfully, will be
expensive and a lot of trouble. Handle bars, stem and seat pin could be alloy or carbon, if you have the money. The frame is the heart of your bike and you will want a good one, at this price range alloy is going to be the first choice with carbon forks and possibly a carbon rear triangle. If you look around you might manage to find an all carbon frame at this price, Giant make a very well priced carbon frame in a compact,
sloping design, there are others but you will have to spend a lot more money.

The Top of The Shopping List.

When’re looking at a lot of money here if you want to buy a professional road bike. The frame will be all carbon or titanium with carbon forks and maybe a carbon rear triangle or alloy main tubes with carbon front or rear end. The nicest ones on the market at the moment, in my opinion, are Colnago, De Rosa, Pinarello, Battaglin, Time, Scott, Cervelo and many more, all are available in different colours, geometries and sizes,
check out there web sites for information and try to make your choice, it’s a difficult job. This is a professional road bike so it will have to have the best components, Shimano Dura.Ace or Campagnolo Record are your only choice at this level. Same with the wheels, Dura-Ace or Campagnolo Bora, these can be for high pressure clincher tires or tubulars, tubulars are more trouble but do ride well, but clincher tires are very nearly as nice and much more practical. Handle bars, stem and seat pin will be carbon and your saddle will have a carbon base with a leather cover and sometimes with gel for a little extra comfort.

The Best Bike You Can Afford.

You do only get what you pay for, so get the best bike you can afford, look around the magazines and the web sites and don’t forget your local bike shop until you get that little jewel, but be careful not to make your partner jealous!
About The Author: The writer John Ewing used to publish
articles for http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com. John helps
people to find the best components for road bikes
http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com/road-bikes.html and
mountain bikes.